Need simple, room-by-room comfort without ductwork? PTAC units (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioners) are the hotel-style, through-the-wall systems that cool in summer and use built-in electric heat for winter. Everything—compressor, coils, blower, controls—lives in one chassis that slides into a wall sleeve and vents outdoors. They’re popular in hotels, multi-family, senior living, dorms, and offices where quick installs, easy swap-outs, and individual room control matter.
What you’re actually buying (and the options that matter)
Most PTACs are sold by cooling capacity (BTU) with a built-in electric heat strip rated in kilowatts (kW). On current retail listings you’ll see common cooling sizes from 7,000 to 17,000 BTU, with heater options like 2.5 kW, 3.5 kW, or 5 kW—and plug/amp variations (15A, 20A, 30A). Many current models also use R-32 refrigerant for efficiency and lower GWP versus older blends.
Quick fit-check: match BTU to the room, kW to your heat needs, and voltage/amp/plug to the circuit you actually have.
Electric heat PTAC vs heat-pump PTAC (when to pick which)
- Electric-heat PTAC (this page): Simpler, lower upfront cost, great for short, quick warm-ups or mild winters. Power draw is higher during heating because it’s just a resistance coil.
- PTHP (heat-pump PTAC): Higher upfront cost, but uses less energy in heating season; best where heating runs a lot. (Same chassis style; just different heating method.)
Power: 208/230V vs 265V, and why the plug matters
PTACs come mostly in 208/230V or 265V single-phase. You must match voltage, amperage (15A/20A/30A), and plug type (NEMA pattern) to your outlet and breaker. Mismatch any of the three and the unit won’t install safely or at all. If you’re replacing an old unit, check the existing receptacle and breaker first.
Sleeves, grilles, and sizing (the 42×16 standard)
PTACs slide into a standard wall sleeve (most commonly ~42″ wide × 16″ high, depth ~14–16″). You’ll also need an outdoor grille. On new builds you set the sleeve first; on replacements you can often reuse the sleeve if it’s in good shape and the new chassis matches. Deep or insulated sleeves reduce noise and drafts.
Efficiency & codes (what to look for on the label)
Unlike central AC (SEER2), PTACs list EER for cooling efficiency. Federal rules set minimum PTAC/PTHP efficiency levels—manufacturers must comply, and DOE last reviewed these standards in 2023. When you compare models, look for EER that meets or beats the minimum for your capacity class.
How to size the BTU and heater kW (simple framework)
- Room size & exposure:
• 200–350 sq ft: usually 7k–9k BTU
• 350–500 sq ft: usually 9k–12k BTU
• 500–700 sq ft: usually 12k–15k BTU
Bump up a size for west-facing glass, poor insulation, high ceilings, or heavy internal gains (computers, kitchens). - Heating expectation: If winter use is occasional or you want quick warm-ups, 2.5–3.5 kW is common. For colder snaps or larger rooms, consider 5 kW (ensure your circuit matches the amperage).
- Electrical reality check: Confirm voltage, breaker size, and plug type before you buy.
Features that actually help in the real world
- R-32 refrigerant on newer models for efficiency and lower GWP.
- Front-desk/energy-management inputs (for hotels): set temperatures, occupancy, and setback.
- Dehumidify/Dry mode for muggy summers.
- Quiet modes and multi-speed fans.
- Washable filters and slide-out chassis for faster service.
Install & replacement checklist
- Verify wall sleeve is sound and properly flashed; replace if rusted or noisy. (Order sleeve + grille if needed.)
- Match electrical (voltage/amps/plug) and heater kW to the room’s circuit.
- Level the sleeve, seal gaps, and install the outdoor grille per manufacturer spec.
- After powering up: confirm cooling and heat modes, condensate drainage, and thermostat accuracy.
FAQs
Can I swap a 230V unit onto a 265V circuit?
No. Voltage, amperage, and plug type must all match the existing circuit and receptacle.
What sleeve size do I need?
Most PTACs use the 42″ × 16″ standard sleeve; check depth (often 14–16″) and manufacturer notes before ordering.
Is electric-heat more expensive to run than a heat pump?
Yes—resistance heat draws more power. Choose electric heat for simplicity/occasional use; choose a PTHP if you’ll heat a lot.
